Italy
More UNESCO sites than any country on earth, and a train network that reaches nearly all of them. Rome for the layers, Florence for the walking, the Amalfi coast for the view. the thinking time, and a taverna where eating alone is nobody's business but yours.
Where to stay
Hotel Artemide
Rome · near the Baths of Diocletian ·
A spa and a rooftop terrace, minutes from Trevi Fountain.
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Ninety-one rooms in central Rome, walkable to the Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps and close to the Baths of Diocletian. There's a rooftop terrace, the Artemís spa doing facials, reflexology and Ayurvedic treatments, a hot tub and sauna, and a 24-hour gym. Ambrosia Restaurant & Bar serves al fresco. It's one of the most consistently well-reviewed hotels in the city, and guests single out the room size — which in central Rome is not a given.
91 rooms in central Rome
Walk to the Trevi Fountain and Spanish Steps
Artemís spa, hot tub and sauna
Rooftop terrace and al fresco restaurant
24-hour fitness centre
Hotel Palazzo Guadagni
Florence · Oltrarno · short walk from the Ponte Vecchio
A rooftop loggia over the terracotta, at three-star prices.
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A three-star in the Oltrarno, a short walk from the Ponte Vecchio and Piazza della Signoria, with the Pitti Palace and the Uffizi close by. The rooftop terrace is the whole point — it's where you end up with a drink after a day of walking on marble. Rooms are air-conditioned, there's a bar, and breakfast is a surcharge. For the price, this location is unusual in Florence.
Rooftop terrace over the city
Short walk to the Ponte Vecchio and Piazza della Signoria
Near the Pitti Palace and the Uffizi
Bar on site, air conditioning throughout
Three-star pricing in a first-rate location
Hotel Marina Riviera
Amalfi · directly opposite the beach
A heated rooftop pool, straight across from Amalfi's beach.
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On the seafront opposite Amalfi's pebbled beach, with a heated rooftop pool and solarium looking out over the water. Continental breakfast is included and served on the terrace, and Bistrot Terrazza 17 handles dinner. There are two bars, and the concierge arranges private boat trips along the coast — which is by some distance the best way to see it.
Heated rooftop pool and solarium with sea views
Directly opposite Amalfi's beach
Continental breakfast included, served on the terrace
Bistrot Terrazza 17 and two bars
Private boat excursions arranged
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Italy has 62 UNESCO World Heritage sites — more than any other country in the world.
There are 20 regions, and the food changes noticeably between every one of them.
Two independent countries sit inside Italy: Vatican City and San Marino.
Rome to Florence takes about an hour and a half on a high-speed train.
Churches require covered shoulders and knees — St Peter's included. Carry a light scarf in summer.
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Best time — April to June, then September into October. August is hot, and many city restaurants close while Italians go to the coast themselves.
Getting around — Trenitalia and Italo both run the high-speed lines and it's worth comparing them. Book ahead for the cheapest fares, and validate regional tickets before boarding — the fines are real and inspectors are unmoved by tourists.
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Italy is easy to travel alone and eating solo is unremarkable, especially at lunch. Attention from men can be more persistent than you may be used to — usually harmless, occasionally wearing. A flat “no, grazie” without breaking stride is the normal response and works. Keep an eye on your bag around Roma Termini and on the city buses.
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