Peru
A city the Spanish never found, the best food in South America, and an Amazon that covers half the country. Peru asks for altitude patience and gives back a great deal.
Where to stay
Sanctuary Lodge, A Belmond Hotel
Machu Picchu · steps from the citadel entrance
The only hotel at the entrance to Machu Picchu.
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Steps from Machu Picchu's entrance, reached by the public bus up from Aguas Calientes. Staying here means you're at the gate for the first entry slot rather than queueing for a bus at dawn. There are orchid gardens with a waterfall, two restaurants, a spa, a free minibar and a daily manager's reception, and breakfast is included. It's the most expensive way to see Machu Picchu and, on the morning itself, the easiest.
Steps from the Machu Picchu entrance
First through the gate, ahead of the bus queues
Orchid gardens with a waterfall
Two restaurants, spa and free minibar
Breakfast included
Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel
Aguas Calientes · cloud forest
Eighty-three casitas scattered through cloud forest, in the town below the ruins.
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Eighty-three rooms spread through cloud forest in Aguas Calientes, the town below Machu Picchu, near the hot springs. There's the UNU Spa, two restaurants, a library and a bar, and breakfast is included. It's the more affordable half of the Machu Picchu decision, and the grounds themselves are the draw — the property is essentially a private stretch of cloud forest with hummingbirds in it.
83 rooms set through cloud forest
In Aguas Calientes, near the hot springs
UNU Spa with massage and body treatments
Two restaurants, library and bar
Breakfast buffet included
Hotel B
Lima · Barranco · art hotel
An art hotel in Barranco, in the city with the best food on the continent.
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In Barranco, Lima's arts district — the walkable, low-rise, mural-covered part of the city, a short ride from Miraflores and the coast. Lima is the gastronomic capital of South America and Barranco is where you want to eat, which makes this the right base for the two or three days most people give the city on the way to Cusco.
In Barranco, Lima's arts district
Boutique art hotel
Walkable to galleries, bars and the clifftop
Short ride to Miraflores and the coast
Bucket List things to do in Peru
10 of the best Peruvian Tours
Living in Peru
The best places to stay in Peru
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Machu Picchu entry is by timed ticket and fixed circuit. You must book in advance, you can't wander freely, and slots sell out in high season. This is the single thing to sort before anything else.
The Spanish never found Machu Picchu, which is why it survived intact.
Lima is the gastronomic capital of South America.
Peru grows around 4,000 varieties of potato.
The Peruvian Amazon covers roughly 60% of the country — most visitors never see it.
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Best time — May to September is the dry season in the Andes and the best window for Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail. January and February are wettest, and the Inca Trail closes for maintenance in February. Lima is grey and misty for much of the winter regardless.
Getting around — Fly Lima to Cusco. Cusco sits at 3,400m, so give yourself two days there before doing anything demanding — and consider sleeping lower, in the Sacred Valley, which many people find easier. Trains to Aguas Calientes run from Ollantaytambo and Poroy.
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Peru is one of the most travelled solo destinations in South America and the tourist routes are extremely well worn, which makes it easy to be alone without being isolated. The main risk isn't people, it's altitude: Cusco is higher than most people have ever been, and altitude sickness doesn't care how fit you are. Arrive, do nothing for two days, drink water, skip alcohol at first, and take coca tea when it's offered. In cities, book cabs through an app rather than hailing them.
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